Nov 10, 2007

||ETHIOPIA|| Counter Culture Coffee - Yirgacheffe v. Harrar

I think comparing these two coffees is like comparing French wines. You know that you shouldn't compare Bordeauxs to Rhones to Burgundys. They have distinct regions, distinct histories, and distinct flavors. It should be apples to apples, right? I think so ... to an extent. You can't always be so static and structured. It is only in comparing their differences that you figure out that each region is very much worthwhile. And you also discover that no matter how indifferent you try to be, you always develop a favorite.

So I won't fight it with coffee. I am going to compare these two different coffees, from two different regions, with two different histories ... together. And I think my experience was all the richer for doing so. So to lead off, a couple of ridiculous comparisons:
1) If these coffees were French wines, the Yirgacheffe is Champange - f
resh, bright, and works great mixed with other drinks. The Harrar is a white Burgundy - fruity, dry, and well balanced.
2) If these coffees were cheese, the Yirgacheffe is sweetned mascarpone
- refreshingly sweet in small quantities. The Harrar is mizithra - subtly enjoyable and unique.

YIRGACHEFFE

Coffee
: COUNTER CULTURE – ETHIOPIA YIRGACHEFFE
Price
: $9.95/12 oz + Shipping = $1.03/oz.
Year
: 2007 (March)
Varietal
:
Location
: Ambessa (southern Ethiopian mountains)
Flavors to look for
: Pronounced lemon-blossom-honey flavor, mango, fruit
What they say
: “Yirgacheffe just might be the best example of terroir, the “taste of place,” that we seek whenever we search out great coffees. One can taste the potent flowers of the Yirgacheffe bushes in the fragrance of the coffee, and the sweetness of the local honey seems to make its way into the coffee beans themselves. The overall taste of the coffee is so brilliant, is it possible that the sun-drying lets in a little bit of the sun’s brightness? The floral character of this coffee is overwhelming, and brings to mind roses and honeysuckle. The fruity nature and light body of this lot make it the perfect summer coffee

TASTING NOTES

FRENCH PRESS

ESPRESSO

Fragrance: Sweet, floral

Crema: Thin and pale

Aroma: Also floral and fresh

Aroma: Fruity

Body: Fairly light and smooth

Body: Thin

Acidity: Also fairly light, thought acidity seems to be in the drivers seat in the cup.

Milk: Actually makes an interesting milk drink, though I would hardly call it a cap or a latte. The milk becomes the dominant flavor, but it tastes good nevertheless.

Finish: A very fresh overall finish – moist, cool, and enjoyable.


Profile & Flavors: Honey definitely comes through, and it is certainly a light cup. I think this is a nice example of how much different coffees can be from each other. This truly is a very fresh, herbal, sweet coffee. Think of fresh Italian parsley – fresh and lively. And just as parsley truly works best as one element in a larger recipe, I think this coffee may work better in a blend. I do think it would work quite nicely as an iced coffee, and perhaps it is best suited for a hot day like the roaster says, but it doesn't seem suited for a cool March day in Omaha.

Profile & Flavors: I did pull it several times, but couldn’t seem to get much worth reviewing. Sweet elements tried to come through. Of absolutely no consequence: 6 parts vodka + 1 part of this coffee as espresso + 1/2 part simple syrup = a very solid and simple espresso martini.



Score: 85

Score: Not rated.

Buy Again? Yes and no (weak answer, I know). It is definitely educational to compare the Harrar and Yirgacheffe – the two dominant coffees from coffee’s original soil. My palate prefers the Harrar to the Yirg … this time. And while I know I prefer other origins for various reasons, I will undoubtedly be doing this same tasting comparison in years to come, if for nothing more than the fun of doing it.

















































HARRAR
Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE – ETHIOPIA HARRAR
Price: $10.25/12 oz + Shipping = $1.05/oz.
Year: 2007 (March)
Varietal:
Location: Illili Daarartu
Flavors to look for
: Fruit, spice, wine
What they say
: “Harrar may be the most exotic place I have ever seen. Coffee is grown in the mountains surrounding Harrar, and has been traded there for generations, making its way in the traditional fashions, by camel, wagon and boat, to the ports of Djibouti and Moka for export to Europe and beyod. We’ve just received the most recent shipment of coffee from Ililli Darartu, and once again it is redolent of fruit, spice, and wine. We love it, and we are looking forward to a long, strong relationship with the community of Bedenno.”

TASTING NOTES

FRENCH PRESS

ESPRESSO

Fragrance: Citrusy and sharp

Crema: Easily burnt, thin

Aroma: Similar to its fragrance out of the grinder

Aroma: A little musty and burnt

Body: Medium body, which battles with the acidity

Body: Thin overall

Acidity: I would call it medium acidity as well, which creates a nicely balanced cup.

Milk: Milk seems to drown out the seemingly thin espresso

Finish: A nice, dry, berry hinted finish. Well balanced, and the flavors are subtle on the finish.


Profile & Flavors: The cup is bright and sweet, but definitely has more strength and body than a Yirgacheffe. A nice Harrar all around. Flavors of cherries and berries are obvious, with a hint of chocolate. A spicy, pungent flavor lingers throughout the cup. It isn’t the typical cinnamon or pepper spice, however, more like fresh ginger. Think chocolate covered candied ginger (if you can) … almost surprisingly potent with the initial sip. On the finish, the flavors are muted, but unique.

Profile & Flavors: At least in my machine, this is too easily burnt and too finicky of a pull. The coffee is resultantly thin and completely without the bittersweet flavor that should be present in an espresso. Again, not every coffee is meant for espresso.



Score: 87

Score: Not rated.

Buy Again? I do prefer the Harrar to the Yirg. On it’s own, I would call this Harrar good, but not great. Credit where credit is due, however, as you can never fault a coffee that has the unique flavor profile that this coffee does.

No comments: