||ESPRESSO|| Counter Culture Coffee - El Salvador Finca Mauritania Pulp Natural Espresso

Coffee: Counter Culture Coffee - Finca Mauritania Pulp Natural Espresso
Price: $10.25/12 oz. + Shipping = $1.15/oz.
Year: 2008
Blend: Single Origin Espresso from Santa Ana, El Salvador
Roast: Slightly darker than they roast this same lot for drip/press coffee - probably just before second crack.
What they say: "An experiment by our roasting department has resulted in one of most delicious single origin espressos we have ever experienced. Roasted to the perfect pitch for espresso, this unique, very limited single origin espresso offers rich, round notes of dark chocolate, molasses, cherry, and licorice above a smooth, creamy body." Read about it on their website

TASTING NOTES
Scores - 87, 87, 87, 87, 87

Crema: Quite dark in the cup, with a burnt sugar taste. I found the crema to be on the thin side overall.

Aroma: I found aromas of flowers and anise. I think less of the roast itself comes through in the aroma than in a typical espresso, making for a lighter, sweeter "nose."

Body: I found the body to be light overall, but not sharply bitter. Often times thin body means a poor prognosis for a shot of espresso - not the case here. While thin, the shot still goes down smooth. The sip lingers on the tongue, but more like a windbreaker than the down-blanket characteristic of many espressos.

Milk: I only had soy milk available for this espresso's tenure. The "lattes"were unexciting, but can't you say that about all soy-milk drinks?

Profile & Flavors: One thing to note is that I found myself able to pull this espresso very consistently, with only minor grinder adjustments. The major flavors I tasted were cherries and plums, with a bit of anise. I also tasted dark honey (the chunky, unprocessed stuff). Think about those chocolate covered cherries with the liquor that bursts out, but with less chocolate ... like biting off one end and eating the whole filling ... then tone the intensity down about half. Someone I was sharing this with made a comment that this espresso would be a great way to win over your regular coffee drinkers to the world of espresso. I couldn't agree more. The shots are not as big as traditional espresso blends. The Finca Mauritania is smooth instead of rich, tastes of fruit syrup instead of melted chocolate, and is sweet instead of smokey. If your typical espresso is a port reduction, this is a "coffee consommé," that being a concentration of all the flavors you might expect to find if you brewed this coffee in a press pot.

Pairings: Good dark chocolate is the perfect compliment for this espresso. I thought it might actually make a good breakfast coffee, so I tried it once in the moka pot, and made enough to get a small cup to sit alongside my chocolate chip pancakes. Success.

Buy Again? Again, my overall impression was positive. Compared to SO Costa Rica espresso I tasted earlier, I preferred this one for sure. That being said, I would probably only recommend this in two situations: 1) The SO aficionado, who wants to try any SO espresso worth trying; and 2) The lonely espresso lover looking for a way to slowly sway friends toward espresso drinking.

||ESPRESSO|| Counter Culture Coffee - Twin Cities Express

Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE COFFEE – TWIN CITIES EXPRESS
Price: $15.50/12oz + Shipping = $1.61/oz
Year: February 2008
Blend: Lem Butler’s custom blend with coffees from Brazil, El Salvador, and Ethiopia
Roast: Full City, no surface oils
What they say: “Counter Culture barista Lem Butler used this custom espresso blend to win his second Southeast Regional Barista Competition in three years. Rich notes of caramel, toasted nuts, and citrus dance atop a smooth body and a sweet, berry-like aftertaste.” Read about it on their website

TASTING NOTES:
Scores - 87, 90, 88, 89, 89

Crema: Rich, dark brown crema with a toasted marshmallow flavor. More sweet than bitter

Aroma: Mostly sweet on the nose – almost floral. I also noticed a faint hint of fresh sawdust on the nose.

Body: Excellent body, very rich and smooth. I often consider how viscous an espresso feels in the mouth as a major determinant of body. It isn’t just the pull – some blends give a more syrupy character, and this is an amazing example of just how syrupy and rich an espresso can feel in your mouth. The initial sip is thick and rich, and the body never fades.

Milk: A very nice espresso to blend into milk drinks. I found myself consistently making some very interesting cappuccinos. The coffee flavor was not at all lost in milk, and the resulting
drink was very rich with flavors of cream and dark berries.

Profile & Flavors: Overall, this was a blend that I felt I was pulling fairly consistently by looking at the shots. Upon tasting, however, I found a wide variety in flavors. Some shots were very sweet, with orange and blackberry flavors predominating. Others I found a completely different profile, with brown sugar, butter, and nutty flavors. Yet others were a sort of complex medley that was difficult to define. Though the shots may have tasted different, they had one thing in common: they were all very rich, and all very delicious. I think not quite knowing what to expect out of each shot may very well have made me like this espresso even more. Overall, the most notable characteristic was the thick, rich body. The overall buttery, sugary backbone of the shots reminded me of dark nut brittle that hasn’t quite hardened.

Pairings: Come to think of it, some dark nut brittle would probably have been a great companion, though I cannot confirm this. I did find that the shot tasted great with dark chocolate pieces.

Buy Again? Yes, though I believe this blend was a limited time thing. Mr. Butler, if you come up with another espresso creation, I will certainly give it a go.

||ETHIOPIA|| Counter Culture Coffee - Yirgacheffe v. Harrar

I think comparing these two coffees is like comparing French wines. You know that you shouldn't compare Bordeauxs to Rhones to Burgundys. They have distinct regions, distinct histories, and distinct flavors. It should be apples to apples, right? I think so ... to an extent. You can't always be so static and structured. It is only in comparing their differences that you figure out that each region is very much worthwhile. And you also discover that no matter how indifferent you try to be, you always develop a favorite.

So I won't fight it with coffee. I am going to compare these two different coffees, from two different regions, with two different histories ... together. And I think my experience was all the richer for doing so. So to lead off, a couple of ridiculous comparisons:
1) If these coffees were French wines, the Yirgacheffe is Champange - fresh, bright, and works great mixed with other drinks. The Harrar is a white Burgundy - fruity, dry, and well balanced.
2) If these coffees were cheese, the Yirgacheffe is sweetned mascarpone - refreshingly sweet in small quantities. The Harrar is mizithra - subtly enjoyable and unique.

YIRGACHEFFE
Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE – ETHIOPIA YIRGACHEFFE
Price: $9.95/12 oz + Shipping = $1.03/oz.
Year: 2007 (March)
Varietal:
Location: Ambessa (southern Ethiopian mountains)
Flavors to look for: Pronounced lemon-blossom-honey flavor, mango, fruit
What they say: “Yirgacheffe just might be the best example of terroir, the “taste of place,” that we seek whenever we search out great coffees. One can taste the potent flowers of the Yirgacheffe bushes in the fragrance of the coffee, and the sweetness of the local honey seems to make its way into the coffee beans themselves. The overall taste of the coffee is so brilliant, is it possible that the sun-drying lets in a little bit of the sun’s brightness? The floral character of this coffee is overwhelming, and brings to mind roses and honeysuckle. The fruity nature and light body of this lot make it the perfect summer coffee

TASTING NOTES
FRENCH PRESS	ESPRESSO
Fragrance: Sweet, floral	Crema: Thin and pale
Aroma: Also floral and fresh	Aroma: Fruity
Body: Fairly light and smooth	Body: Thin
Acidity: Also fairly light, thought acidity seems to be in the drivers seat in the cup.	Milk: Actually makes an interesting milk drink, though I would hardly call it a cap or a latte. The milk becomes the dominant flavor, but it tastes good nevertheless.
Finish: A very fresh overall finish – moist, cool, and enjoyable.
Profile & Flavors: Honey definitely comes through, and it is certainly a light cup. I think this is a nice example of how much different coffees can be from each other. This truly is a very fresh, herbal, sweet coffee. Think of fresh Italian parsley – fresh and lively. And just as parsley truly works best as one element in a larger recipe, I think this coffee may work better in a blend. I do think it would work quite nicely as an iced coffee, and perhaps it is best suited for a hot day like the roaster says, but it doesn't seem suited for a cool March day in Omaha.	Profile & Flavors: I did pull it several times, but couldn’t seem to get much worth reviewing. Sweet elements tried to come through. Of absolutely no consequence: 6 parts vodka + 1 part of this coffee as espresso + 1/2 part simple syrup = a very solid and simple espresso martini.
Score: 85	Score: Not rated.
Buy Again? Yes and no (weak answer, I know). It is definitely educational to compare the Harrar and Yirgacheffe – the two dominant coffees from coffee’s original soil. My palate prefers the Harrar to the Yirg … this time. And while I know I prefer other origins for various reasons, I will undoubtedly be doing this same tasting comparison in years to come, if for nothing more than the fun of doing it.

HARRAR
Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE – ETHIOPIA HARRAR
Price: $10.25/12 oz + Shipping = $1.05/oz.
Year: 2007 (March)
Varietal:
Location: Illili Daarartu
Flavors to look for: Fruit, spice, wine
What they say: “Harrar may be the most exotic place I have ever seen. Coffee is grown in the mountains surrounding Harrar, and has been traded there for generations, making its way in the traditional fashions, by camel, wagon and boat, to the ports of Djibouti and Moka for export to Europe and beyod. We’ve just received the most recent shipment of coffee from Ililli Darartu, and once again it is redolent of fruit, spice, and wine. We love it, and we are looking forward to a long, strong relationship with the community of Bedenno.”

TASTING NOTES
FRENCH PRESS	ESPRESSO
Fragrance: Citrusy and sharp	Crema: Easily burnt, thin
Aroma: Similar to its fragrance out of the grinder	Aroma: A little musty and burnt
Body: Medium body, which battles with the acidity	Body: Thin overall
Acidity: I would call it medium acidity as well, which creates a nicely balanced cup.	Milk: Milk seems to drown out the seemingly thin espresso
Finish: A nice, dry, berry hinted finish. Well balanced, and the flavors are subtle on the finish.
Profile & Flavors: The cup is bright and sweet, but definitely has more strength and body than a Yirgacheffe. A nice Harrar all around. Flavors of cherries and berries are obvious, with a hint of chocolate. A spicy, pungent flavor lingers throughout the cup. It isn’t the typical cinnamon or pepper spice, however, more like fresh ginger. Think chocolate covered candied ginger (if you can) … almost surprisingly potent with the initial sip. On the finish, the flavors are muted, but unique.	Profile & Flavors: At least in my machine, this is too easily burnt and too finicky of a pull. The coffee is resultantly thin and completely without the bittersweet flavor that should be present in an espresso. Again, not every coffee is meant for espresso.
Score: 87	Score: Not rated.
Buy Again? I do prefer the Harrar to the Yirg. On it’s own, I would call this Harrar good, but not great. Credit where credit is due, however, as you can never fault a coffee that has the unique flavor profile that this coffee does.

||ESPRESSO|| Counter Culture Coffee - Espresso Toscano 2007

Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE – ESPRESSO TOSCANO (CAFFE DULCE)
Price: $10.15/12oz. + Shipping = $1.05/oz.
Year: 2007 (February)
Blend/Roast: Brazil Ipanema "Dulce" + Sumatra Lintong + Sumatra Aceh Gayo; A wonderful espresso roasted and blended in the caffe dolce or "sweet coffee" tradition of Central Italy. Sweet and mild, with notes of caramel, hazelnut, and dark chocolate, Toscano has built quite a following of professional Baristas and home espresso enthusiasts alike.
What CC says: “Toscano has been a favorite of ours since then, its sweet dark chocolate and caramel notes are perfect for the cappuccinos and ristrettos we live for. Each year, as new coffee crops arrive, we reformulate Toscano so we are sure to get that special sweetness we prize in this coffee. We've recently reformulated the blend to emphasize the sweet chocolate notes that accompany Toscano's classic butter-caramel sweetness. We love chocolate and caramel in this coffee!” Read about it on their website

TASTING NOTES
Crema: Pretty tan-colored crema. Not thick, not thin.
Aroma: Powerful toasted roasted aroma
Body: Thick and syrupy when dialed in
Milk: Strong enough for milk – but use at least full-fat or soy milk, because otherwise it just tastes like you are watering it down.

Score: 90, 87, 87, 89, 88

Profile & Flavors: Toasty, deep, bitter espresso that is quite nice when pulled right. Think dark as opposed to light. On the bitterness, think bitter chocolate as opposed to astringent. I found this espresso fairly easy to pull consistently. Make no mistake, this espresso is quite unique and quite good. Very nice chocolate flavor, and I would specify the caramelized flavors as toasted marshmallows ... very heavily toasted marshmallows. Makes a very solid milk drink, especially a mocha (if you are able to drink such things, which in this case, I am). When condensed into a ristretto, the shot is delicious, and indulgently dense, like drinking pure melted chocolate as opposed to chocolate milk.

Buy Again? Yes, but I want to try Counter Culture’s other espressos first before returning to this one.

||ESPRESSO|| Counter Culture Coffee - Espresso Aficionado 2007

Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE COFFEE - ESPRESSO AFICIONADO
Price: $10.00/12oz. + Shipping = $1.13/oz.
Year: 2007 (October)
Blend/Roast: Blend not known (Brazil + Ehtiopia Harrar?); Relatively lightly roasted, Northern Italian style espresso blend and roast. Requires slightly hotter pulling temperatures, near 203*F to extract its full potential sweetness.
CC says: “The Northern Italian espresso is a completely different animal than in the rest of Italy. Relatively lightly roasted; complex, delicate, and composed, many espresso devotees proclaim the Northern Italian style to be the quintessential espresso experience. When the modern espresso machine entered this milieu, the coffee blend of choice naturally reflected the Northern Italian taste: coffee flavors are balanced against one another; the natural sweetness of lightly roasted coffees offset their aromatic complexity and dance above a full-bodied foundation. The final product is a sophisticated and complex, and perfectly suited to the Northern Italiand espresso ristretto and the traditional cappuccino.” Read about it on their website

TASTING NOTES
Crema: Deep reddish brown, easily burnt crema. Thick and substantial crema layer with every cup
Aroma: Sweet and toasty aroma, like toasted marshmallows. Makes you think of s’mores.
Body: Creamy body that lingers in the mouth after each sip. Surprisingly dry overall.
Milk: One of the best milk-handlers I have ever pulled. Sweet syrupy notes come through like chocolate into a delicious latte or cappuccino. Perfect with any milk, from 2% to half and half.

Scores: 88, 97, 90, 88, 95, 90

Profile & Flavors: Semisweet chocolate is the most obvious flavor. Sweetness is apparent throughout, but difficult to assign an exact flavor. I taste dark cherries. This espresso is dry and nutty to the finish. Think of the skin on a hazelnut, naturally dry and almost salty, pulling out the sweetness of the nut. Very complex indeed, but very delicious. Just like they were trying to do, it seems that the Espresso Aficionado captures the quintessential espresso flavors: bitter, sweet, and almost winey when pulled properly. It can be a bit finicky to pull (note the fluctuance in scores), but when hit right, it is an extremely rewarding espresso (see 97!). A great everyday espresso, which earns extra points for its wonderful milk-handling ability.

Buy Again? Definitely. Perfect for everyday shots and for milk drinks. I actually prefer this to their ’07 Toscano (review coming).

||HONDURAS|| Counter Culture Coffee - Finca El Puente

Coffee: COUNTER CULTURE – FINCA EL PUENTE HONDURAS (“PURPLE PRINCESS”)
Price: $10.65/12oz + Shipping = $1.18/oz.
Year: 2007 (October)
Location/Blend: Marcala, Honduras; Blend of 11 microlots from Finca El Puente farm (farmer Marysabel Caballero)
Roast: Full City + roast; oil still evident on dark brown beans
Flavors to look for: Lavendar, Purple fruit, Silky body
What CC says: "Honduras is one of those off the beaten path origins. This coffee does its part to support the truism that spectacular coffees come from spectacular places. The farm itself covers the side of a mountain, and there are a number of little hidden valleys where the coffee is tucked; each has a name, and its own personality. The chemists tell us that great coffees have thousands of aromatic chemicals that give coffee its character, and it’s coffees like this that make me believe it. Every time I grind this coffee, I am surrounded by flowers, fruits, and perfumes. Delicate and complex at the same time. This coffee simply defines elegance, I would choose it if I were serving a princess." Read about it on their website

MY TASTING NOTES
FRENCH PRESS	ESPRESSO
Fragrance: Dry sweetness, like raisins, and very floral	Crema: Very light brown creama, thin
Aroma: Very sweet, wet aroma, similar to its dry fragrance, just more moist. Dates, raisins, and dried fruit	Aroma: Sweet, floral, burnt sugar aroma
Body: Very good body, very oily in the cup. Creamy body emerged as the cup cooled	Body: Thin, but lingering
Acidity: Medium acidity doesn’t wax or wane as the cup cools	Milk: Too bitter for milk.
Finish: Beautifully silky body finishes with a more floral/earthy finish
Profile & Flavors: “The Princess” got me through my surgery rotation. Every morning, our team of three med students could look forward to an elegant cup of coffee, while everyone else was stuck drinking the brown water being passed off for coffee in the surgeon’s lounge. We could see the oils floating in the cup, taste the sweet dried fruit with each sip, and enjoy the slightly biting acidity. Figs, raisins, and dates come to mind. Just the thing to wake you up. As the cup cooled, it turned creamy and silky. The sweetness didn’t disappear, but cooled to a more floral tone. Background flavors of vanilla and brown sugar persisted throughout. This is the kind of coffee that needs to be enjoyed over 10-15 minutes, as the flavor profile changes multiple times. I personally think brewing this coffee at a lower temperature, around 196-198, helped bring out some of the more floral and delicate characteristics.	Profile & Flavors: A very bitter cup of espresso. Some different flavors indeed, and an interesting SO pull. Burnt sugar and vanilla predominate, and the bitterness does not have much to balance it.
Score: 92	Score: 82
Buy Again? Most definitely. This coffee has opened my eyes to Hondurans for sure, though I have a feeling this is a somewhat unique coffee. See, for me, this coffee will always remind me of the early mornings and long hours of my surgery rotation. I certainly will always remember the rounds, the patients, the lectures, and the six hours of retracting in the OR. We certainly were the bottom of the totem pole. But when it came to the morning coffee, we were kings, if only for ten minutes. Did it have to be this coffee? Probably not. But it was. And that will keep me buying it for years to come.